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Author: Michael Klerck
I am not at all amazed to see so many articles on cruising in Alaska.
While it is disturbing to see no fewer than 4 gigantic liners in the small port of Ketchikan on any day in season, for instance, they do seem to time their arrival so that our shore excursion into a tropical forest (yes tropical) was as memorable as promised.
We chose Alaska because we wanted to visit North America for the first time. But also because it sounded so exotic; it would be, coming from South Africa.
It was nothing short of breathtaking. But it was also the ship itself, Holland America’s Volendam that made it especially so. Imagine sitting in a leather chair nine storeys up in an observation lounge with 270 degree views. Imagine this in almost utter silence, while the ship glides through a narrow passage, with less than 100 metres on either side. We could hear the waterfalls, see the wildlife, and watch in amazement as whales and seals swam passed us. When she approached a ‘corner’ my naval instincts and ocean experience that goes back 30 years said no. How was she going to negotiate what was literally a corner up ahead? Keep in mind this was the largest ship I had ever embarked: over 70 000 tons. I ran below decks to call my wife, and we both watched in amazement as her pods (much like movable outboard motors) and bow thrusters allowed her to sail through effortlessly.
When we reached the glacier it was an experience that was quite simply humbling. All the statistics about the melting ice and the glacier itself retreating many metres each year were disturbing, but then again it was as a result of this that we could approach and enter what was now a ‘modern’ bay, not accessible 20 years ago. In fact because of the sophisticated engines and designs, few ships, even with much less tonnage, have been able to negotiate the narrow passages and actually turn around when they get there.
I delighted in videoing how the captain, by using a pencil sized joystick, was able to program the ship so that she turned so silently and slowly over a period of an hour, without any movement forwards or backwards. I wondered if my small frigate, of just 2500 tonnes, from the South African Navy in 1973 might have done this ‘ I think not. Passengers on the bow, and those sitting astern were then afforded a view of the entire bay and the cathedral-like walls of the glacier itself as the ship turned slowly in the streaming sunshine of the Alaskan summer. The glacier itself was somewhat daunting, with pieces of ice ready to calve. We desperately hoped a large one would break off and crash with thunderous applause into the mottled green bay, but alas only slivers did so on that particular day. We were acutely aware that our very presence added to the environmental changes, but were somehow willing to compromise in order to live the moment; so much like most of us on our endangered planet.
In fact the entire cruising programme must be, for many people, not excluding the planners and ships owners, somewhat of a dilemma. Hundreds of summer cruises a year do take their toll: the air pollution itself is big a factor. But owners and cruise operators do everything they can to minimize the effect. Cigarette butts are a serious no-no, for example; don’t even think of throwing one overboard, and I have do doubt that with technology, our gargantuan liner was probably less guilty of environmental damage than my tiny frigate all those years ago.
Skagway gives one a chance to take a memorable train ride up over the start of the Rockies and into Canada; one follows the path up the mountain on which hundreds of pack animals fell to their death as a result of their owner’s greed for gold. We were simply delighted at the Humpback Whale food festival out in the bay at Juneau, Alaska’s capital (the only one in the world that is not accessible by road). This ’shore excursion’ of about three hours was well worth it. Our small-boat captain guaranteed, with typical American marketing gusto, that we would see them feed. And we did. What a feast! The glaciers retreated with the last ice age and carved a vertical passage down into the bay, meaning that the shoreline has a vertical drop of hundreds of metres into the sea. It was here that a family of Humpbacks secured their lunch with their sophisticated methods of diving and bubble netting their small prey.
Believe it or not, we experienced some disappointment with regard to wildlife. One can see more whales, and really up close, in October to January in Cape Town and surrounds than we did in Alaska. We were constantly reminded that on the multitude of islands we passed on the inside passage (essential method of cruising) that for each square kilometre there was one bear. Sadly, or luckily we encountered and saw not one. I turned to my wife one day and knew what she was thinking. For all the wilderness angle pursued by brochures and guides, we realised how privileged we were to live in a country with the greatest concentration of life on the planet. Alaska seem almost desert-like, but from this aspect only.
We did visit a salmon farm and see beautiful eagles. The whale feeding-frenzy (at home they entertain us with circus tricks) is now edited and copied to a much viewed DVD back home, and we realised that Alaska was not necessarily (for us, that was) a memorable wildlife experience.
But boy, it sure put on another display. One cannot visit without feeling one has been transported to a world of sublime and inexorably, stark, and primordial beauty. It is here, as with other ‘last frontiers’ that the world of yester era can be experienced. The beauty is both harsh and delicate, a place where ancient forces: enemies and allies met and struggled, and still do. I shall not easily forget the sun dispersing dark and ominous clouds, just in time for us to bask in its rays and then literally gasp at the spectacularly beautiful colours that the sunshine itself was able to entice from the seemingly cold and austere glacier.
She, the sun, seemed to thrust herself down onto the orchestra of icy protrusions and phallic structures, like an excited conductor might charge at his musicians with his baton, evoking their hidden talents.
We found our very spirits dancing with every ray that fell and in some weird neurological space my brain did summersaults. I remembered the testimony of a LSD-taking patient years back, and his description of how he ‘heard’ a sunset and could see colours in sounds. Here Nature was the intoxicating influence, and I swore blind that night that I had smelt the very colours that danced on the back of the retreating glacier, and heard every moan of the pristine and exquisitely beautiful blue that shimmered in every crevice and corner of the dazzling bay!
It is a wonder that many of these cruises are so inexpensive (I hate to use the word cheap). On the cusp of summer: April/August, September one can find them for as little as $499. This for an entire week of sublime luxury and relaxation.
Amazingly, with at least four meals a day, and at least one gourmet tray of delights at 2am, my wife and I actually lost weight! The food was nothing short of spectacular and while my wife faithfully journeyed through the entire menu each night, my waiter soon appeased my strange penchant for dining by serving no fewer than three small main courses from around the world. I would certainly not have been able to afford such delights in Paris of Vienna, some not even back home.
Choose your cruise line carefully; while Holland America’s passenger list averaged around 45 in age, a small family of kids had the children’s program and a full-time child minder to themselves, this a distinct advantage. But they might have been lonely. And if it’s love, sex and rock ‘n roll you’re after you might like to take a peek at Carnival or a cruise line that majors in another kind of wildness. Personally I would prefer this type of party cruise in the Med, Caribbean or Mexico. Somehow the breathtaking setting of Alaska itself demands a quiet and humble respect, more in tune with sipping whiskies, and silently walking on the upper deck in the clean, ancient air.
Whatever your choice, go you must. You will not be the same again.
About The Author
Michael Klerck is a writer and winner of the Mondi Paper Magazine Writer’s Award for work in Men’s Health. Visit his website for tips and articles on cruising: http://luxurylinerholidays.com
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